What to wear for Durga Puja, day by day

The short answer: wear something new, wear something you can walk in, and wear fabrics that breathe. For Bengalis, Durga Puja is the year's great occasion for new clothes, pujor jama (puja clothes), and many people plan a different outfit for each day from Shashthi to Dashami. There are a few traditional favourites for particular rituals, like a white-and-red silk sari for Ashtami anjali and a red-bordered white sari for sindoor khela, but no strict dress code. Families and regions differ, and visitors of every background are welcome in whatever respectful clothes they're comfortable in.

The pujor jama tradition

In the weeks before the puja, Kolkata's markets, from Gariahat and Hatibagan to New Market, are crowded with shoppers. Parents buy new clothes for children, elders give clothes to younger relatives, and households often buy clothes for the people who work with them. Getting your pujor jama is part of the build-up, and wearing it, ideally something you haven't worn before, is part of the joy. Many people count the days in outfits: one for each evening of pandal hopping, one for anjali, one for Dashami.

Saris, explained

Bengal's weaving traditions give puja wardrobes their character. A few names you'll hear:

• Tant. Light, crisp handloom cotton saris, traditionally woven in places such as Shantipur and Phulia in Nadia district. Cool, practical, and ideal for humid daytime pandal hopping. They are starched for crispness, so expect them to soften after a few hours.
• Dhakai jamdani. A fine, almost sheer handloom fabric with motifs woven into the cloth rather than printed or embroidered. The tradition is associated with Dhaka in present-day Bangladesh, and jamdani is also woven in West Bengal. Light enough for October evenings yet dressy.
• Baluchari. Silk saris from Bishnupur in Bankura district, famous for pallus (the decorative end) woven with scenes from epics and everyday life. Heavy and formal; a good choice for an evening at a family puja.
• Garad and korial. Silk saris, typically white or off-white with a red border, from the silk-weaving areas of Murshidabad and nearby. They are a traditional choice for rituals, especially Ashtami anjali and sindoor khela.
• Lal-paar sada. Literally "red-bordered white", the classic look for married women on Dashami. It can be a garad, a korial or a cotton tant.
• Tussar and other silks. Textured, lighter silks that work for both day and evening.

If you're new to the sari, a pre-pleated or ready-to-wear sari, or a salwar-kameez or kurta set, is perfectly fine. Comfort comes first when you are on your feet in a crowd.

For men

• Dhuti-panjabi. The traditional pairing of a dhoti (dhuti in Bengali) and a long kurta (panjabi). It is common for anjali, family pujas and Dashami.
• Panjabi or kurta with pyjama or jeans. The everyday pujo look for pandal hopping, often in cotton, khadi or silk blends.
• Silk or tussar panjabi for evenings and family visits.
• A light shawl or uttariya over the shoulder is sometimes worn for rituals.

Day by day

For more on each day's rituals, see Maha Ashtami and Bijoya Dashami.

What to wear for anjali

For the Ashtami pushpanjali, people traditionally wear clean, freshly washed or new clothes, and many fast until they have offered flowers. Women often choose a garad, korial or other silk sari; men a dhuti-panjabi or a clean kurta. You'll be standing or sitting closely packed with others, sometimes on the floor, so a sari or dhoti you can sit in easily helps. Practices vary by family and puja, so follow the lead of the people around you.

Also readMaha Ashtami

What to wear to the bisarjan

Bisarjan (immersion) processions are joyful, loud and messy. People dance with the dhak, colours and vermilion fly, and the ghats can be wet and slippery.

• Wear something you don't mind getting stained; sindoor is very hard to wash out.
• Choose closed, grippy footwear rather than delicate sandals, and avoid long trailing hems near the water.
• Leave expensive jewellery at home.
• Carry a small towel and a change of clothes if you are going to the ghat.

Footwear for pandal hopping

You may walk many kilometres in a night, often on uneven, crowded roads. Wear shoes or sandals that are already broken in, with soft soles and good grip. Slip-ons save time at pandals and family pujas where you are asked to remove shoes. If you have new festive footwear, carry it in a bag and change for one or two stops. Blister plasters are worth packing. Our pandal hopping tips cover the rest of the walking kit.

Dressing children

Children get the most excited about pujor jama, but long evenings test any outfit. Choose soft cotton, avoid scratchy embellishments and tight waistbands, and pack a spare set for spills. Bright colours make children easier to spot in a crowd. Put a contact card with your phone number in a secure pocket; see Durga Puja with kids and elderly visitors.

Fabric tips for a humid October

• Choose breathable fabrics for the daytime: handloom cotton, khadi, linen and light jamdani. Save heavy silks and synthetics for the evening or air-conditioned visits.
• Light colours feel cooler in the sun; deep colours and rich silks look beautiful under pandal lights at night.
• Carry a spare dupatta or light scarf for sun, a sudden shower or covering your head at a family puja.
• Dress for rain. Short showers are possible; a sari or dhoti hem that can be tucked up, and footwear that tolerates puddles, help.
• Keep layers light. Pandals and Metro stations can be stuffy, and air-conditioned restaurants cold.
• Pin and tuck securely. Safety pins keep sari pleats and pallus in place in crowds and on escalators.

For visitors

You don't need traditional clothes to enjoy Durga Puja, but many visitors love buying a tant sari or a cotton panjabi as a souvenir and wearing it out. Dress modestly at family pujas and during rituals, cover your shoulders if you wish to sit near the altar, and remove shoes where asked. Planning a trip? Start with our traveller's guide to Kolkata, and look up unfamiliar words in the glossary.